Proud People
The hot 50 yo Russian on Tinder turned out to be 58, but she was still fit and we met at the Bread & Butter Cafe on My Kye beach, where she was wearing nothing but a black bikini. The cafe was the fanciest cafe I've been in so far. Totally western with the price point to go with it. I bought her a coconut coffee on ice and we sat there chatting while I kept looking at places I shouldn't. Hey, it's wasn't my fault! Maybe next time I'll turn up in my G string budge smugglers with my bits hanging out.
Before meeting the Russian it was time to clean up. With a shower and shave, I hit the streets looking for a hairdresser. The first shop was more of a salon and needed a booking so I kept going only to find the coolest barber shop. I asked how much and he said $VND60,000 ($AUD3.20). I thought that can't be right so I typed 60000 into the phone and he gave me the thumbs up. He turned the beat box up and started dancing/prancing around me to the beat, his scissors going at the speed a cutter runs over a comb on a shearing hand piece. How he doesn't get RSI I have no idea. The haircut was first class. 10/10
I found my date sitting outside the cafe under an umbrella. She had a hard time understanding my accent, likewise me with her Russian, but we communicated slowly and resorted to the odd Google translation. Between Google maps and Google translator I'm not sure how anyone travelled in the past. They are two essential travel tools. Two other essential travel apps for Asia are obviously Grab and Moreta Pay.
Vietnam uses QR codes, not Visa/Mastercard. Only the larger more corporate stores will have card facilities. Initially I used VNPay, but for foreigners it works nowhere and requires a local mobile number. Moreta Pay has been fantastic and has worked everywhere, you just need an internet connection.
Her name was Ksenia and we got along quite well. I was really interested in her views on the Ukraine war, Putin, and living in Russia. Turned out we had simular views and my interest and desire to go-to Russia started growing even more. She is returning home in 2 weeks, and it seemed she was looking forward to doing so. I started thinking maybe she could help me out if I went there? After a while of chatting, her roommate, a more solid built but still attractive woman turned up. I'm sure she just wanted to check me out. I couldn't understand what they were saying to each other but I got the vibe it was all good.
Ksenia is a lover of Salsa dancing and knowing that I can't salsa for shit, I volunteered for a few lessons. We stood up and I tried to repeat the moves she showed me. She became frustrated and would repeat "man is General, man is General". I knew what she ment, she was saying I need to lead, but I don't even know what the steps are! 10 minutes later and she stopped and started laughing, declaring "you don't dance. You forget this. It's bad idea". I felt like the Victor on the Comedy Company.
Time seemed to pass quickly and before I knew it, I was trying to politely say I have to go. The state premiere V League 1 soccer game of Danang V Nah Din was on tonight at Hou Xuan Stadium. The game started at 6pm, but Grok told me if I wanted to buy tickets at the gate I needed to be there by 4.30. I had tried to buy them online, but it was hopeless.
I just needed to do one other job first. Ed had sent me a few txt about the cost of diesel, and Sam had also asked me what it was worth in Vietnam. Having spotted a servo on the way here, I left Ksenia asking if she wanted to meet again? She replied " sure, why not".
At the servo it was impossible to understand the price of fuel. The person serving had no english and I tried to use Google picture translator to translate the signs but gave up. Then people started beeping their horns at me, and one car was so loud I wanted to rip the horn out and stick it up his ass. Standing in the way of everyone, a guy came up to me and asked "Are you ok?" "I want to know the price of diesel" I said. He replied "What car you drive?" I said "no car, I just want the price". He lead me over to the person serving fuel and spoke the jibba jabba. "Diesel is 27000 dong per litre" he said. I thanked him and shook his hand. Fuck knows how I'm ever going to fill a motorbike up at a servo in this country. I guess you just pull up and point at the tank or something. English wont work, thats for sure.
My bestie Grok tells me since the Iran situation the national average price for diesel has increased 59% while Australia has been 32%. Interestingly Australia sources its oil through Singapore and is the same oil that Vietnam buy. To understand the price, a can of beer in Vietnam cost $AUD1 and a litre of diesel cost $AUD1.45 meaning beer is now cheeper than fuel in Vietnam. If you compare that to Australia, the cost of diesel is $A2.80 and a can of beer cost $AUD6. This suggests fuel in Australia is still very cheap for the average person.
I raced back to the appartment, changed, and headed to Bahn Mi 365 where I shoved a couple of Bahn Mi's into me. I didn't want to go through the drama of trying to get food at the game (like you do at the MCG) with both my language skills and me not even knowing what I'm eating.
The grab travelled way further than I expected, and I tried to absorb the areas we went through. It was a good 25 minutes. The stadium was in the middle of a paddock surrounded by vegetation you would need a machete to penetrate. The grab driver had little idea where the main gate was and just stopped on the road near the stadium. I tried to explain "main entrance" but decided it was just easier to walk there. As I walked to the entrance four officials in black uniforms with machine guns stood in the middle of the road as people walked past. Machine guns.. that's scary!
In reality the place was deserted, maybe 5000 people and I quickly found the ticket box where 4 English Manchester United supporters were trying to work out what tickets to buy. I bought my ticket and asked where I go. The lady in the ticket box was excellent and pointed over there. I walked past the English guys and said "A1 are the best seats". "A1" "Yeap, A1" "Gee, thank you" I felt like a real local and walked off. I didn't tell them I only knew that because Grok had told me.
I have only been to one other real soccer game. That was at South Melbourne before they demolished the ground to make way for the Grand Prix. I had forgotten how boring this game was. Fantastic when they try for a goal and the crowd goes nuts, but overall it's boring. The other thing I couldn't handle in this game was the softness. Just a little tap and they would fall on the ground and roll around pretending the had a broken leg. And if the ref didn't give a penality all the players would run up and be in his face protesting vigorously. Meanwhile, the so called injured player was up and running around like nothing happed. Talk about Hollywood acting. These jokers should try playing AFL! Danang lost 1-2.
Entering the ground, my ticket was scanned but after entry I had no idea where to go. I asked another guy in black uniform with a machine gun and he responded "No engly". I kept walking straight and found another guy in black uniform. I showed him my ticket and he waved towards the seats bellow. I asked "sit anywhere?" He gestured again, and so I found a seat in the middle.
As the players warmed up, drummers started banging away in the stands and I thought this is cool. I had no idea which players where Danang so I tapped into Google translator "which one is Danang" and showed the man sitting behind me. His son, the first fat chubby kid I have seen in Vietnam who wasn't the size of a pencil was sitting beside him and pointed to my left. He then said to me "would you mind if I sit next to you?" I said "of course not".
His name was Fuc which was easy to remember, but sort of embarrassing to call someone. This kid was quite knowledgeable and asked me lots of questions. Sometimes we took it in turns sharing the translator on his phone, but he could speak English quite well. He told me he studied English at school. He was a funny sort of kid. He would pause and then talk, probably thinking how to say what he wanted in English. A few times he told me "I am thinking about your answer". The biggest thing I got from him was just how proud he was of his country (and his football team). When I told him I didn't like Pho he was in shock, and he told me Vietnam has the best food and most beautiful beaches in the world. Sure it might be naive and propoganda, but at least he was proud of his country which is a shitload more than I can say about my country.
I enjoyed his company, but was weary of him and aware of the random conversations he would have with his father. He just wanted to be friendly and expand his knowledge of the world and share his love for Danang and Vietnam with me, and here I was thinking what do these people want from me? Are they trying to scam me?
This attitude of mine is becoming a problem. After the game, and back at the appartment I decided to go and get another Bahn Mi. Walking through the streets that are now full of locals who are sitting outside their houses smoking and drinking, a man yells out "Hello. what's you're name?" "Stephen" I replied, but kept walking.
On return two of them stood up and stopped me. One was called Hieu and the other Young. They just wanted to talk and kept hugging me. They both got very excited doing the skippy dance and when they told me they were 53 yo, I mistakenly said I was 53. Despite trying, it was too hard to correct myself and they both danced around like children saying "we all the same" and giving me high fives.
They were just happy people and harmless people who were loving engaging with a foreigner. As a westerner it's hard for me to accept this. I'm always on the defense. Another thing I've noticed as a western person is I'm always in a hurry. There is no hurry here. Everything is very chill. There is no need to rush, especially when it comes to food, coffee, or talking to people. They don't understand "I have to go".
As I left them both putting the table and chairs away, I passed a scooter that had someones belongings sitting on it. I thought, someone could just take all that. Then a young woman came out of a house and with a smile said "Hello" "Sing Chow" I replied. As I walked off I couldn't help but think isn't it sad the way western people have been taught to think.